Arrivederci to Valpromaro

Although long and tiring, our days at Valpromaro went by quickly.   After learning the routines, we appreciated the peaceful regimen.

Clean, cook, host, repeat

6:30 a.m.:  make coffee and set the table for breakfast (bread, jam, fruit, and hard-boiled egg)

7:00 - 7:30:  pilgrims’ breakfast

7:30 - 8:30:  the pilgrims depart

8:30 - 10:00:  clean the hostel

10:00 - 11:00:  shower and do laundry (hang it outside)

11:00 - 1:00:  prepare bread dough, collect pine cones for the fireplace, fill acqua frizzante bottles, etc.

1:00 p.m.:  ospitalieras’ lunch

1:30 - 2:30:  riposo

2:30 - 5:00:  welcome new pilgrims

3:00 - 7:00:  prepare supper (soup/salad, bread, main, and cake)

7:30 - 8:30:  pilgrims’ supper

8:30 - 9:30:  wash dishes, clean the kitchen, and visit with pilgrims

9:30:  bedtime

With no local store and Luciano without a car, we ospitalieras worked with the ingredients on hand in the hostel cucina.  Luciano determined the menu and cooked the main dish, while Jim prepared the soup or salad.  Laurel quickly found her groove as the ostello baker and experimented daily with the different flours she found in the cupboard.  Breads, buns, and cakes soon filled the pantry and our bellies.  Dissatisfied with the quality of the bread that she was turning out, Laurel researched the proper Italian flour for bread and learned it to be “Farina Manitoba” — upon her request, the local committee sourced some.  Our meals now included cinnamon buns and focaccia. 

This personal touch to our meals was remarkable and seemed to bring everyone closer together.  What began as a group of pilgrims was transformed into a table of friends by the time dessert was passed around.  You could not only see it their faces, you could also hear it in the animated multilingual conversations and laughter.  It was a beautiful noise!

By the end of the week we were exhausted, but sad to leave Luciano behind.  Hugs and last minute photos almost made us miss our bus to Lucca.

Luciano kept our fireplace ablaze (temperatures were as low as 4C).

Pine cones were essential for the fireplace, scorpions were not!

Dorms were swept and mopped every morning (max 45 beds).

Hanging Laundry

Cinnamon buns were a favourite.

The number of pilgrims varied from 4 to 14.

Focaccia and minestrone were made for each other.

By the end of a meal everyone felt like old friends.

The Three Ospitalieras 

Luciano and our replacement, Paola