Cinco Caminos – Stage 5: Villaviciosa to Monasterio de Valdedios (12 km) 15°C – muggy—bit of rain

By Jim

I was in a pretty good mood when I woke up this morning – maybe it was because the Leafs beat the Bruins last night, maybe it was because it stopped raining, maybe it was because according to the guide book we only had to walk 8.5 km today.  Whatever the reason, we were not as disciplined as usual; we laid around until 10:00, had three separate breakfasts, and stopped for a bottle of sidra and tapas just as the church bell stuck 12:00.   By the time we left Bar La Alameda we had already walked 3 km and we were technically still in town.  

The entire route today was on secondary asphalt farming roads that transversed pasture and forest.  Half way into our journey we bid adios to the Camino Norte and hola to the Camino Primitivo, which we will follow all the way to Santiago de Compostela.  Today’s destination was the Monasterio de Valdedios, a Cistercian cloister built around the church of San Salvador de Valdedios (commissioned by Alphonso lll, King of Asturias, in 873).  A Perigrino’s Albergue is now housed in the rural monastery, which still functions as a convent.  King Alphonso lll did walk the Camino to Santiago but it was his predecessor King Alphonso ll who established the Primitivo as the first route of the Camino de Santiago.  

We checked in at 3:00 with six other pilgrims and then toured the church and cloister.  After volunteering at the hostel in Valpromaro, it was hard not to critique this Albergue.  An A plus for location and facilities and a B minus for food and service (bland soup and invisible nuns).  Our communal supper was in danger of turning into a silent monk’s meal until a pilgrim, Andrew, from Calgary charmed the table with his questions and comments (yeah Canada!).

A late start and some exploring before hitting the trail.

Second and third breakfasts before an early lunch.

The cloister at San Salvador de Valdedios and the original Romanesque church.

Arriving at Monasterio de Valdedios.

The cow knew we were lost.

At the entrance to the monastery.

The monastery wall.