Toledo, Spain — June 13 - 17, 2024

We finished up with a few days in Toledo, where our Scottish friend Mairi joined us!  Toledo is a city of 83,000 located 70 kms southwest of Madrid, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Known as the "City of Three Cultures," Toledo's rich heritage has been shaped by the influences of Christian, Muslim, and Jewish populations throughout its history.  As we wandered up and down the narrow, winding streets of the medieval old city center built atop a gorge overlooking the River Tagus, we marveled at the stunning architecture.  The city's impressive stone gateways, bridges, and well-preserved walls showcase a blend of Visigothic, Moorish, and Christian influences, adding to Toledo's unique charm. 

Toledo seen from across the River Tagus; the Alcazar stands out at the highest spot in the city.

An early morning view of the Alcazar and the city walls.

Mairi exploring Toledo with us.

Toledo has two historical foot bridges that span the Tagus River.

Left:  Puente de Alcántara - This bridge, located on the eastern side of the city, dates back to Roman times and is considered one of the oldest bridges in Toledo.

Top and Right:  Puente de San Martín - Located on the western side of Toledo, this medieval bridge was constructed in the late 14th century to provide access to the old town. It features five arches, with the largest spanning an impressive 40 meters. 

Four of Toledo’s many gates that showcase its rich history and architectural heritage. 

1) Alcantara Bridge Gate (top left):  Located at one end of the Alcantara Bridge, this gate was constructed in the 10th century during the Moorish period.

2) Bisagra Gate (top right):  A Moorish-origin gate, built in 1559 by Alonso de Covarrubias.  It carries the coat of arms of Emperor Charles V and serves as the main entrance to the city.

3) Alcantara Gate (bottom left):  A key entry point to Toledo's historic city center, this gate features a grand arch.

4) Puerta Del Sol (bottom right):  A 14th-century gate built by the Knights Hospitaller, named for its east-facing orientation towards the rising sun.

The Bisagra Gate, near our apartment.

Walking through various gates.

Beautiful doors displaying the Moorish and Christian influences.

Narrow cobblestone streets; we appreciated the awnings giving shade, as it was very hot.

The Toledo Cathedral.

The Cathedral is filled with art.  Left:  one of many paintings by El Greco, who lived in Toledo.  Right:  a work by Caravaggio.

The train station.

The interior of the train station is also beautiful.

Views from our apartment:  early morning hot air balloon seen while we had coffee on our rooftop terrace, sunset behind the wall, and a courtyard beside our accommodation next to the old city wall.

An aerial view of Toledo

Segovia, Spain — June 11 - 13, 2024

After completing our Caminos, we chose a couple of Spanish cities near Madrid to explore.  First, Segovia, a city of 53,000 situated 75 km northwest of Madrid.

The Roman Aqueduct

The Segovia Aqueduct is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a remarkable example of Roman engineering.  It was built during the reign of Emperor Trajan in the early 2nd century AD.  Constructed without the use of mortar, the aqueduct consists of 24,000 granite blocks, showcasing its impressive double arches that reach a height of 30 meters.  It originally transported water from the Frío River, located 16 kilometres southeast of Segovia, and continued to do so until 1950.

Textured Walls

Moorish textured mosaic walls, reflecting geometric, and Arabesque designs.

The Cathedral

The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción y San Frutos sits atop Segovia’s highest point. Constructed between 1525 and 1768, it is a remarkable example of late Gothic architecture— the last to be built in Spain.  The cathedral's massive size and striking moorish influences house ornate chapels, stunning altarpieces, sunlit cloister, and one of the tallest towers in Spain.

On the way to the Alcazar.

The Alcazar

The Alcázar of Segovia is a fortress atop a rocky crag at the confluence of two rivers.  Built in the 12th-century, it has served as a residence for the Kings of Castile, a fortress, and a royal artillery college. It’s striking turrets and fairy-tale charm provided inspiration for Walt Disney's Cinderella Castle.

View from the Alcazar.

Ceilings in the Alcazar.

Throne room and depictions of kings and queens.

On our walk through the park below the Alcazar and around the old town walls.

An aerial view of Segovia

Cinco Caminos – Stage 39: Sigueiro to Santiago de Compostela (18 km) 16 - 22°C – Sunny

By Jim

We applied what we had learned from our last Albergue in Betanzos to Sigueiro, choosing bunks in the smaller dorm (six beds) away from the door and bathrooms.  The Italian Nordic walkers checked in after us and had to take beds in the 14 bed dorm.  Checkmate!   In the morning, I did join them for breakfast at 5:00 a.m., bonded over strong coffee, and bid them arrivederci before Laurel joined in on the carb-feast.

Our last day’s walk was pleasant.   Except for a stretch along a motorway, and some industrial park outside Santiago, we were treated to shaded woodland paths and small country roads.  The entrance to Santiago gave us wonderful views of the cathedral and surrounding buildings.  Meeting Miguel, a pilgrim we had crossed paths with in several albergues on the Camino Ingles, just as we entered the square was special.   We exchanged high-fives, took group photos, and enjoyed the buzz and excitement of the moment.  We made it!  One couple, five different Caminos, thirty-nine stages, 876 kms, and 3,500 photos (give or take).

Ode to the Albergue

On the Camino,

the albergue is our home —

a place where total strangers

in their underwear do roam.

A place to line up for a bunk,

for showers, toilets, too.

To wash your clothes in bathroom sinks 

with limited shampoo.

The kitchen provides a challenge

for cooking if you're brave:

Hard-boiled eggs?  Electric kettle.

Frozen pizza?  The microwave.

Sleeping is a crapshoot;

sometimes you win or lose.

An auditory broadcast,

with no mute for you to choose.

Why stay at an albergue?

This sounds like a lament.

Though meeting kindred spirits

certainly, is time well spent.

Throughout the days and miles,

fellowships ensue.

A comfortable acceptance —

that is the pilgrim's glue.

Once strangers with suspicion,

Who share this albergue space,

now seek to make eye contact

and put a smile on each other's face.

If you are ever fortunate

to share a communal meal,

your snoring will be forgiven —

wine has a way to heal.

The albergue brings us together —

more than place and time to share.

We truly understand it when 

we meet again in Saint James' square.

Our last day was an easy walk to Santiago.

The Camino Ingles enters Santiago on a nice path.

Our Camino ends at the Cathedral in Santiago.  Meeting a fellow pilgrim and sharing the moment.

Cinco Caminos – Stage 38: Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro (25 km) 18°C – overcast, cloudy

Ode to My Feet

By Laurel

Oh, my feet!  You have faithfully carried me

Far across Spain!

You’ve been with me every step of the Way,

Through sun and rain.

Each morning you were fresh and ready to go,

As we hit the trail.

By balmy afternoon, your pace had slowed down

Up hill, through dale.

Blisters can happen; in total, you had two.

Arches may pain;

By putting new insoles into my shoes, it

Lessened the strain.

Along the Camino, at the end of each stage

You’d be so sore,

But then — awesome relief upon reaching the

Albergue door!

When I say “ode” to my feet, what I mean is

“Owed” to my feet —

Foot bath, massage, hot wax, pedicure, the works!

They deserve a treat!

* Our second last day on the Camino Ingles!  Tomorrow …. Santiago de Compostela!!

Leaving Hospital de Bruma (walking through the tidy little village).

Church in Hospital de Bruma.

In the countryside.

Counting down the kms to Santiago!

Seeing other signs showing that we’re getting closer to Santiago!