Saturday, May 18, 2024

Cinco Caminos – Stage 17: Lugo to Friol (27 km) 12°C – rain

By Jim

Lugo is 100 km from Santiago, which is the minimum distance that qualifies for a Compostela (pilgrimage certificate).  As such, many people start their journey here and walk for two or three days to Melide, join the Camino Frances with its hordes of pilgrims and walk another two to three days to Santiago.  There is also a lesser traveled route called the Camino Verde, that joins Lugo with the Camino Del Norte and eventually the Camino Frances, but much closer to Santiago.  This way is less crowded and gives you the option of spending the night in Sobrado de Monxes, a 1000 year old Abbey.


Two paths diverged in a wood… 


The Camino Verde was wet, muddy, and beautiful.  The first four kilometers followed a stream through a lush forest that was a spa for the senses.  Rain was ever present; mist, drizzle, downpour, repeat.  The farm and logging roads that the route followed were deserted.  We only met three farmers and a fisherman all day.  Except for the many dogs who patrolled the farm yards and announced our arrival and departure, the day was a quiet, futile search for a cup of coffee.  No services until Friol!

The start of the Camino Verde was the one of the most beautiful trails we have walked.


Camino Verde trail markers are plentiful, but not always easy to find.

Rain and mud were ever present.


 Dolinen da Moruxosa: a Neolithic portal tomb (4000 - 3000 BCE), along the trail near Friol.

The only dry spot we found all day.









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