Saturday, May 11, 2024

Cinco Caminos – Stage 11: Borres to Berducedo (28 km) 24°C – sunny with clouds




By Laurel

The Hospitales Route lived up to its reputation — a physical challenge with beautiful views.  There were ascents (the equivalent of 101 flights of stairs) and descents.  Some were steep.  Some paths were strewn with loose stones, while others thankfully consisted of springy short grass, pine needles, or soft dirt.  Upon reaching the top of the route, for a long stretch one walks along high ridges, looking down deep valleys and out across the miles.  You feel on top of the world (or Spain, at least).  Cows and horses calmly graze on the mountain meadows.  Sauntering past the ruins of three pilgrim hospitals (hence the name of the route), each situated at a high and remote spot on the trail, the modern pilgrim can only marvel at the skill and effort to have built and operated them there so long ago.  What welcome respite they must have provided to weary pilgrims centuries ago.  Today there are no services or water fountains along the route; we had to make sure we carried ample water and food for a simple picnic lunch, and energy snacks.  I guess in some ways we haven’t really improved things in our modern age.

We reached our destination after 9.25 hours (8.5 of actual walking) and I was totally and completely spent.  The sun, too, had taken its toll on us.  Jim and I both needed a good rest and especially appreciated our lovely small hotel with private room and bathroom, and the hearty pilgrim’s meal available at our accomodation.







There had been a fire a year ago on the first section of the Hospitales Route.

Steep stony paths.

The ruins of three pilgrims hospitals.








Final stretch to Berducedo — thankfully flat and soft under foot.









2 comments:

  1. Amazing photos Happy Mother’s Day, Laurel!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks — Happy Mother’s Day to you, too, Lea!

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