By Laurel
The first stage on the Camino dos Faros has been accomplished!
You may be wondering: what is the Camino dos Faros and where is it?!
Answer: it is “the Way of the Lighthouses” and follows the coast from Finisterre to Malpica* (don’t be lazy — look that up on a map).
Well, we also had a few questions on our minds today as we started this next phase of the Cinco Caminos:
Q — Would we find way markers along the route and, if so, what do they look like?
A — There is some signage, but not nearly as good as on the Camino de Santiago (which of course has excellent directional markings). No more stone obelisks with scallop shells, bold yellow arrows, and the number of kms indicated. Just some chipped green dots painted on boulders and the occasional green plastic arrow nailed to a tree trunk — and rather few and far between, at that. It doesn’t help that we’re walking the route backwards and have to look behind us to see some of them.
Q — In the absence of way markers, how accurate will the online map be?
A — Happily, it seems to be easy to follow. We didn’t get lost.
Q — How will the trail be?
A — Today it was flat and mostly shaded. Only a bit on pavement. Mainly on dirt paths sided by trees. Views of inlets off the ocean. Along a beach or two.
Q — Will we see lighthouses?
A — We saw the one at Muxia as we left, and tomorrow we’ll pass by the second one!
* Clarification: as described in this blog, we walked on the Camino de Santiago path from Finisterre to Muxia (a more inland route); there is a separate path for the Camino dos Faros from Finisterre to Muxia, which hugs the coast and involves some cliff side walking. The Camino dos Faros officially ends at the town of Malpica, after which we’ll take the bus to A Coruna. The C. dos Faros guide book that we’re using (Cicerone Press) outlines the route in the direction from Malpica to Finisterre, but we’re walking it in the opposite direction.
In lieu of taking a rest day today, we rode the bus part way along today’s route to make it an easier day. We jumped out at the town of Ponte do Porto and started walking from there. This evening we’re getting our laundry caught up at the laundromat across the street.
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| Early morning church bells in Muxia. |
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| Church at the point of the cape at Muxia, early morning. |
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| Top and bottom left: Ponte do Porto; Bottom right: Muxia |
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| Way markings on the Camino dos Faros. |
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| Notice the green dot on the tree? |
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| Handmade lace — an old art still expertly done in Camarina. |
Supplementary question: did you meet or see anyone else on the route?
ReplyDeleteYes! On the first day, we met 12 walkers on the trail (all going in the opposite direction to us). On the second day, we met about 47 walkers — most going opposite to us but about six going our way. One was a young German gal walking from Finisterre to Malpica, who we chatted with for a while. Many of the other 41 walkers appeared to be on a group walk (10 or so per group) and quite likely on day walks (that’s our speculation) between the English Cemetery and the Vilan Lighthouse. We were surprised to see so many yesterday.
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